Boracay—AKA Paradise Island

Pronounced Bah ROCK Eye, not BOE ruh kye

Boy oh boy, did we need a holiday!

Consistently ranked on lists of best beaches in the world, Boracay is a 4 mile by 1 mile island south of Manila. A quick hour-long flight to the neighboring island of Caticlan, then a van to the jetty port, a speedboat to Boracay. For a nominal upcharge, we opted for the private transfer door to door (i.e. airport to hotel, which included a private speedboat) and let’s just say the fee was WELL worth it. No waiting for anything. At each transfer point, we arrived, and then we immediately were on our way. Forty million thumbs up.

After our van to the hotel, all of our transportation was via e-trikes; battery powered tricycle taxis. Very few gasoline cars (and three gas stations) are on the island-the e-trikes are the way to go. Here is one:

White Beach

All we can say is that neither the photos nor the written descriptions can do this beach justice. It’s breathtakingly beautiful. The sand is somehow soft? Think sugar sand, but you can’t feel the crystals. It’s that white and that silky, from the coral reefs offshore.

Former president Duterte shut down the island for several months a few years ago so the area could recover a bit from over tourism. Today, you cannot arrive on the island at all without proof that you have a pre-booked hotel. Nothing was crowded. And no umbrellas or chairs are permitted.

We were relaxing at one of the bar/restaurants that dot White Beach, when suddenly, for no discernible reason, people dressed in costume came out to the beach and began to parade-dance around. These were not tourists, mind you, but local employees.

Dumbfounded and confused describe us—and everyone else—pretty well.

Each evening at sunset, all the tourists and employees stop whatever else is happening to watch the sunset. Literally. Whatever. Else.

What a glorious view.

The volcanic rock formation is just offshore. The headstone-looking thing is actually a Virgin Mary shrine.

You may remember from a previous newsletter that there used to be a Hobbit House in Manila, staffed entirely by midgets and dwarves, that unfortunately closed. However, much to our joy, we stumbled upon its still-open counterpart in Boracay! Obviously, we didn’t take photos because that would be totally rude and disgusting, but it was such a treat to see.

Bulabog Beach

This is the view we had sitting along Bulbog Beach. We were in awe of the kite surfers and how fun it looked to be gliding across the crystal water while being pulled by the wind. 20 years ago we would have asked one of the surfers if we could could try it for ourselves.

Puka Beach

At the northernmost point, Puka Beach has “sand” like we’ve never seen. Tons of good shelling, but we did not find a single puka shell. Probably all scavenged by the locals who turn them into jewelry and sell them at stands along the walkway.

Yet, for all this beauty, it’s constantly humbling to remember how unbelievably poor most of the country is. Boracay is no exception. The locals live in one of the most gorgeous places on the planet, but their homes are also their shops, constructed of jerry-rigged sheet metal held together by string and wire.

Hard to see from the photo, but in front of this line of shops/homes is a six foot wide “ditch” about 15-20 feet deep. Note the gangplanks from one side to the other. Not something you want to navigate in the dark.

All the shops are named according to who owns them, i.e. Daisy’s Store, Jamilla’s store, Charles and Dona’s store.

Ilig Iligan Beach ( plus Cujo’s Keyhole on Lapuz-Lapuz Beach)

H’s favorite beach was the hidden Ilig Iligan beach, not far from Puka but pristine. Covered. In. Beach. Glass. Don’t tell, please, as she wants it to all still be there for her when we go back.

The photo below is of Cujo’s Keyhole, taken from Ilig Iligan. Despite a deep Internet dive, we have no idea why it is named Cujo. No killer dogs around that we could see.

And this is the photo of Ilig Iligan from Cujo’s Keyhole. A very secluded cove!

Mt Luho

The tallest spot on Boracay is Mt. Luho which a short e-trike ride from Ilig Iligan.

After 141 steps to the top of the viewing area we were treated to spectacular views of the entire island.

Unfortunately, we couldn’t stay forever. We did get to see someone using his time wisely (?) at the airport with his portable exercise equipment he had no shame in using in the middle of the chaos.

And this emergency exit, which you better hope you never need because it is locked.

We’ll leave you with a little taste of paradise.